To do the conversion, i was allowed to use a corner in the machine workshop of my work. I was very pleased to have this work space which is light, warm, spacious, loads of tools, compressed air and a fork lift. The only catch is i was only allowed to use it for two months. That should be do-able. (wrong!) I removed the engine and the wheel suspension. Underneath i made some wooden beams for easy picking up with the fork lift
	During week days i had to store the car on this shelf and i had to hide it with loads of cardboard so customers wouldn't see it. I was able to do some light work on it while it was hidden. For bigger i put the car down in the weekends.
	First trail fit! Looking good! The engine is hanging on one side on a beam and on the other side on the engine mount.
	Loads of space above the engine. There is enough clearance around the petrol tank. (which is allways a problem with matra engine conversions)
	Seems OK
	The oil pan is quite low. But i don't want to position the engine higher up. If ground clearance will be a problem, i will reshape the oil pan.
	Trail fit done, engine out, car back to shelf.
	Continuing preparing the engine. The bearing for the drive shaft will be made with option 3. For that i made a bracket from the engine mount to the front iron. The long bolt must be bolted in the front iron. So i had to drill and tap. I drilled too deep and hit the water. Some locktide on the thread will prevent leaking.
	This is the bearing housing.
	The shaft runs close along the exhaust ports. There is room for the exhaust pipes, but it will be very tricky to be able to mount the header. The bottom holes are slotted. I can get the flange in place by shifting it down (inclined) on the bottom bolts and then tipping it on the top bolts. I hope this will also work when the pipes are attached to the flange. Otherwise i have to take of the drive shaft every time i want to take the header off.
	Drive shaft and bottom engine mount. The pink angle-line is bolted to the adapter plate and the bearing housing. The bottom engine mount is attached to the angle-line.
	The finished bearing housing. On this side a stainless ring to enclose the bearing....
	...And on this side two hook-bolts to secure the bearing. To prevent the hook-bolts from turning i welded some cutted nuts on it.
	This is the oil pump, which pumps oil from the sump to the carburettor for lubricating the rotor seals. (a bit like two stroke engines) I modified this pump so it will pump oil from a separate tank instead of oil from the sump. Now i can feed it with real two stroke oil for better lubrication and less carbon on the rotor. The modification of the pump consist of closing an oil passage, drilling a new oil passage, making a fitting and replace all o-ring for viton o-rings. Normal o-rings desolve in synthetic two stroke oil.
	This is a toyota starter motor, driving the mazda starter ring gear. The starter motor must be positioned 12mm backwards. This is done with aa alu spacer. It also had to come 2mm closer to the center. That is done by slotting the holes in the flange of the starter motor.
	Electric time! Which is my provesion. so peace of cake! I made a new wiring loom on the engine which ends in a connector. That can be plugged in the original matra chassis wiring loom. So no cutting in the wires!
	The two coils are placed on the bulkhead. They (and the fuelpump) are powered directly from the battery through a relay and a fuse. That will reduce the amount of current through the ignition key.
	The oil pressure switch is placed on a T fitting, together with an oil pressure sender. The oil pressure switch will be connected to the oil level light in the dash.
	There is very little space for the clutch cilinder. The toyota cilinder cannot be placed, because the oil cooler is in the way. I grind off all excess metal from the cilinder and made my own bracket. The cilinder is fixed by a circlip. The groove is made with a lathe.
	Problem: the stroke of the clutch pedal does not match the stroke of the cilinder. If the clutch pedal is moved halfway, the cilinder is already made its full stroke. That is because the toyota clutch cilinder has much smaller bore than the matra one. So i had to squeeze the matra cilinder in place. I had i slim the cilinder a lot to get it done.
	Engine is back in the car.
	Final left-hand side engine mount, bolted to the original chassis mount. To reduce sidewards move of the engine, i made a rubber boss.
	And the right-hand side engine mount with the rubber boss.
	The gear selector rod which runs under the car needs some modification.
	Experimental gear levers and rods. This will be made properly with rod heads.
	The lever at the end or the gear selector rod has a funny scape, because it has to curl around the dif and the chassis mount.
	The mazda radiator and the matra one, which is much smaller. I will use the original matra radiator and the cooling pipes under the car. Hope it will do. Otherwise it will be a massive job to get a bigger radiator in the matra. We will see..
	The rotary engine has the cooling outlets at the back, but i need them at the front to connect them to the matra cooling pipes. With some stainless pipes i detour the water back to the front. The cross fitting gives me connections for the oil cooler, interior heater and expansion tank.
	The stainless pipes are placed under the engine mount.